Small/Medium – Underarm (buttoned) 101cm. Length 58.25cm.
Large/Extra Large – Underarm (buttoned) 125.5cm. Length 64cm.
This pack contains all the Alice Starmore Hebridean 2 Ply yarn required to make the Mary Tudor design from Tudor Roses in your chosen size. You will require a copy of TUDOR ROSES (2013 Edition) for the pattern instructions, the Tudor Roses book is available for purchase here.
For a step-by-step video tutorial showing all the techniques involved in knitting and finishing stranded garments visit our Stranded Knitting in the Round with Steeks tutorial section.
£95.50 – £124.50
ALL ORDERS OF OVER £50 IN VALUE ARE DELIVERED FREE OF CHARGE
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All orders are mailed through our Royal Mail contract service.
For addresses in the UK we deliver by Royal Mail 1st Class.
For addresses outside the UK we dispatch our orders by tracked contract air mail through Royal Mail, the UK’s national postal service, which has links with the postal services of most other countries.
Please ensure that you check our DELIVERY INFORMATION page for full details.
This yarn pack contains a minimum of all the Alice Starmore yarn amounts listed in the book for your chosen size.
For further information, please check our PURCHASE INFORMATION page.
Mary was the quintessential Tudor Rose: the classic beauty of the dynasty. For that reason I created a pattern for her which contains a rose based on the Tudor emblem. I also wanted to depict other emblems of her personal history, so I designed a Fleur de Lys and little crowns to represent her starring role as Queen of France. I tied all these symbols together in a pattern that I have re-worked here on a scale that I much prefer to the original, and which allows an extra size in the finished work.It was a joy to re-create Mary Tudor in yarn of the quality and colouring that truly reflects the aura of regal beauty that I wanted to convey. I also re-designed the silhouette, with set-in sleeves made separately rather than the original dropped shoulder made in one piece. I have provided a choice of methods in the construction of the sleeve caps. The first is for a cap with a steek, using the method that Jade and I created for her Elizabethan Jacket in 1998; this technique is for knitters who prefer to keep going in the round. The alternative instructions are for working the cap back and forth in rows, which makes for less bulk in the finished garment as there will be just one steek around the armhole. Either way, this is a fairly easy design to make: the trickiest part being the mitred corners at the lower front, but even these are relatively simple. If you desire the queenly Mary Tudor and are a competent knitter, then it is well within your reach.
The knitted measurements given are of the finished design when it has been knitted with the tension stated in the pattern instructions.
The range of sizes available depends on the individual design. For garments such as pullovers, cardigans, vests and jackets, use the underam measurement to determine the size you require. The underarm measurement is the finished width around the entire garment, measured under the arms. For a garment with a front fastening, such as a cardigan, the finished underarm is given when the front bands are overlapped and the garment is fastened.
To determine which size is required, use the actual chest/bust measurement, which should be measured straight across the back, under the arms and over the fullest part of the chest/bust.
Then add one of the following measurements according to the type of fit you require:
For a close, body-hugging fit add 1 to 3cm to the actual chest/bust measurement.
For a standard fit add 5 to 8cm.
For a loose fit add 9 to 12cm.
For an oversize fit add upwards of 12cm.
The knitted length given for garments is measured from the top of the shoulder to the bottom of the hem.
Please note that all of our yarns are supplied washed and therefore do not require to be washed or fulled after knitting, unless you have an accident. Generally speaking, your garments should not require cleaning/washing any more than a coat would.
All of our designs are made with 100% pure new wool yarns and should be washed either by hand with pure soap in hand hot-water, or in a front loading washing machine which has a specific wool programme using a small amount of non-biological detergent. We do not recommend the use of any fabric softeners or any additives that will remain in the fabric after rinsing.
If hand washing, dissolve a small amount of pure soap flakes – or if using a pure soap bar, grate the required amount – into hand-hot water. Ensure that the soap has thoroughly dissolved before immersing the piece. Use a gentle squeezing motion to wash; do not cause any friction by rubbing or scrubbing as this will cause the fibres to felt. Gently squeeze out the excess soapy water and rinse well in warm water. It is important to remove as much excess water as quickly as possible as the longer moisture is left in wool yarn, the more likely it is to shrink or felt.
The best method for removing water is to spin in a washing machine, but if you prefer to remove the water by hand then gently squeeze the piece to remove the main water load and then lay the piece flat on towels and roll up, squeezing out as much water as possible into the towels. You will have to use several towels and repeat the process to remove as much moisture as you can.
Alternatively, spin to remove the excess water. If using a top loading machine it is important to place the piece in a suitable pillowcase (white cotton is best) so that it does not wrap around the spindle and become distorted. For both top-loading machines and front-loading machines, it is vitally important to remove from the spinner as soon as it has stopped: otherwise the piece can become permanently creased.
In all cases, dry flat on towels away from direct heat/sunlight, and smooth gently into shape. You can place small towels – or even better, cut and finish old towelling into the garment shapes, such as sleeves etc – and place inside the garment so that the two layers are separate. This will greatly help speed up drying process.
For straight, dropped-shoulder pullover styles, a woolly board is an excellent method of drying as the garment is placed on the board and dried to size allowing air to circulate inside. The board can also be used for cardigans in this style so long as you tack the front bands closed using a strong cotton thread, which you then carefully remove once the garment has dried. Glove boards can also be used for gloves which will allow them to dry in perfect shape.