Elizabeth Of York

International Shipping

Tracked International Shipping Costs

Orders up to £150 to a single address – Total Shipping £10

Orders up to £175 to a single address – Total Shipping £15

Orders up to £250 to a single address – Total Shipping £20

Orders up to £350 to a single address – Total Shipping £30

Orders up to £450 to a single address – Total Shipping £40

Orders over £451 to a single address – Total Shipping £50

Orders over £551 to a single address – Total Shipping £60

Orders over £651 to a single address – Total Shipping £70

Orders over £751 to a single address – Total Shipping £80

Orders over £851 to a single address – Total Shipping £90

Orders over £951 to a single address – Total Shipping £100

This scale reflects the fact that larger orders will go in separate boxes.

Please ensure that you check our DELIVERY INFORMATION page for full details.

UK Delivery

Orders up to £100 to a single address – Total Shipping £5

Orders up to £150 to a single address – Total Shipping £7

Orders up to £250 to a single address – Total Shipping £10

Orders up to £350 to a single address – Total Shipping £15

Orders up to £450 to a single address – Total Shipping £20

Orders up to £550 to a single address – Total Shipping £25

Orders up to £650 to a single address – Total Shipping £30

This scale reflects the fact that larger orders will weigh more and will go in separate boxes. All of our UK parcels are sent by Royal Mail 1^st Class. Shipping times within the UK are 2-3 days on average.

Please contact us if you wish to make an order over the value of £650.

Please ensure that you check our DELIVERY INFORMATION page for full details.

This yarn pack contains a minimum of all the Alice Starmore yarn amounts listed in the book for your chosen size.

For further information, please check our PURCHASE INFORMATION page.

Elizabeth of York was born into the wealthy splendour of the royal court and her clothing would have been rich and ornate from her earliest days. I created a pattern for her in 1996, which was loosely based on the style of woven fabrics of her time, and I worked it entirely in texture in one colour. This time I wanted to reinterpret the same pattern; therefore I explored the theme of the rich and colourful textures of raised, embroidered fabrics that would have been the stuff of her everyday life. My aim was to see if I could capture that medieval richness in wool yarn and knitting, still using my original pattern. As soon as I made a swatch in Red Deer and Mountain Hare I knew I had it – a whole new dimension shimmered and glowed as I moved it around.

My new take on the pattern spurred a change in the design, and I saw it this time as a little fitted bodice with a square-cut corsage, very much in the style of the dresses she would have worn at court, usually over a chemise with loose sleeves.

This is a project for a knitter well-versed in stranded knitting. The complexity is two-fold: though it is worked in two colours in the round throughout, the additional purling and knot-making within the pattern breaks the usual rhythm of traditional stranded knitting, and it takes a little getting used to. You will also need to be ultra-aware of your tension, as you will be moving the pattern colour back and forth throughout the knitting.

The second point to watch is the setting out of the charted pattern. As the garment is shaped, it reflects at each side of a centre underarm stitch and does not simply repeat all the way round. Therefore take extra care when setting out the pattern on that very first row.

Alice

The knitted measurements given are of the finished design when it has been knitted with the tension stated in the pattern instructions.

The range of sizes available depends on the individual design. For garments such as pullovers, cardigans, vests and jackets, use the underam measurement to determine the size you require. The underarm measurement is the finished width around the entire garment, measured under the arms. For a garment with a front fastening, such as a cardigan, the finished underarm is given when the front bands are overlapped and the garment is fastened.

To determine which size is required, use the actual chest/bust measurement, which should be measured straight across the back, under the arms and over the fullest part of the chest/bust.

Then add one of the following measurements according to the type of fit you require:

For a close, body-hugging fit add 1 to 3cm to the actual chest/bust measurement.
For a standard fit add 5 to 8cm.
For a loose fit add 9 to 12cm.
For an oversize fit add upwards of 12cm.

The knitted length given for garments is measured from the top of the shoulder to the bottom of the hem.

Please note that all of our yarns are supplied washed and therefore do not require to be washed or fulled after knitting, unless you have an accident. Generally speaking, your garments should not require cleaning/washing any more than a coat would.

All of our designs are made with 100% pure new wool yarns and should be washed either by hand with pure soap in hand hot-water, or in a front loading washing machine which has a specific wool programme using a small amount of non-biological detergent. We do not recommend the use of any fabric softeners or any additives that will remain in the fabric after rinsing.

If hand washing, dissolve a small amount of pure soap flakes – or if using a pure soap bar, grate the required amount – into hand-hot water. Ensure that the soap has thoroughly dissolved before immersing the piece. Use a gentle squeezing motion to wash; do not cause any friction by rubbing or scrubbing as this will cause the fibres to felt. Gently squeeze out the excess soapy water and rinse well in warm water. It is important to remove as much excess water as quickly as possible as the longer moisture is left in wool yarn, the more likely it is to shrink or felt.

The best method for removing water is to spin in a washing machine, but if you prefer to remove the water by hand then gently squeeze the piece to remove the main water load and then lay the piece flat on towels and roll up, squeezing out as much water as possible into the towels. You will have to use several towels and repeat the process to remove as much moisture as you can.

Alternatively, spin to remove the excess water. If using a top loading machine it is important to place the piece in a suitable pillowcase (white cotton is best) so that it does not wrap around the spindle and become distorted. For both top-loading machines and front-loading machines, it is vitally important to remove from the spinner as soon as it has stopped: otherwise the piece can become permanently creased.

In all cases, dry flat on towels away from direct heat/sunlight, and smooth gently into shape. You can place small towels – or even better, cut and finish old towelling into the garment shapes, such as sleeves etc – and place inside the garment so that the two layers are separate. This will greatly help speed up drying process.

For straight, dropped-shoulder pullover styles, a woolly board is an excellent method of drying as the garment is placed on the board and dried to size allowing air to circulate inside. The board can also be used for cardigans in this style so long as you tack the front bands closed using a strong cotton thread, which you then carefully remove once the garment has dried. Glove boards can also be used for gloves which will allow them to dry in perfect shape.