Small – Underarm 94cm. Length 66.5cm.
Medium – Underarm 103cm. Length 66.5cm.
Large – Underarm 110cm. Length 66.5cm.
Extra Large – Underarm 117cm. Length 66.5cm.
This pack contains all the yarn required to make the Margaret Tudor design from Tudor Roses in your chosen size and colour of Alice Starmore® Scottish Fleet. You will require a copy of TUDOR ROSES (2013 Edition) for the pattern instructions, the Tudor Roses book is available for purchase here.
This design is available in cream or navy Scottish Fleet, see below for detailed images of colours.
£82.50 – £90.00
ALL ORDERS OF OVER £25 IN VALUE ARE DELIVERED FREE OF CHARGE
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For addresses in the UK we deliver by Royal Mail 1st Class.
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Please ensure that you check our DELIVERY INFORMATION page for full details.
This yarn pack contains a minimum of all the Alice Starmore® yarn amounts listed in the book for your chosen size.
For further information, please check our PURCHASE INFORMATION page.
The relationship between the Scottish thistle and the English rose was ever-complicated and often violent. Margaret Tudor’s marriage to James IV of Scotland was a diplomatic attempt to bring peace and calm to the warlike neighbours. In the short term the diplomacy failed, and James was killed at the battle of Flodden, but in the long term it brought about the political unification of the two countries. Margaret Tudor was a major historical figure whom history has short-changed: she is little remembered and has no memorial. I wanted to correct this historical oversight by creating for her a wearable memorial of heirloom quality.My first thought was to design a bold and elaborate thistle pattern to signify both the dramatic power of Scotland’s landscape and Margaret’s role in shaping its history. I wanted the thistle to stand out as an iconic image and so I made it large in scale and rendered it in strong textures, giving it a sculpted quality. In contrast, I designed a little openwork rose to signify the gentler climes of the England that she left behind. My Scottish Fleet 5 Ply yarn was the ideal medium with which to express the sculptural qualities of the design, and to provide a durable garment that can be handed down through generations.
I united the symbolic elements in a complex design that references the Tudor fashion for slashed garments, where the outer fabric is cut into openings to reveal another garment or fabric underneath. I placed my thistle in outer prominence, with the rose peeking through from panels set underneath.
I have re-worked the original design to focus the slashed panels on the body only; the set-in sleeves are now knitted in single pieces, in the same pattern that I originally designed for the side panels. It was an involved design exercise and it is quite a serious undertaking to knit. It is vitally important that you maintain a firm tension in order to show the sculpted textures in their full glory.
The knitted measurements given are of the finished design when it has been knitted with the tension stated in the pattern instructions.
The range of sizes available depends on the individual design. For garments such as pullovers, cardigans, vests and jackets, use the underam measurement to determine the size you require. The underarm measurement is the finished width around the entire garment, measured under the arms. For a garment with a front fastening, such as a cardigan, the finished underarm is given when the front bands are overlapped and the garment is fastened.
To determine which size is required, use the actual chest/bust measurement, which should be measured straight across the back, under the arms and over the fullest part of the chest/bust.
Then add one of the following measurements according to the type of fit you require:
For a close, body-hugging fit add 1 to 3cm to the actual chest/bust measurement.
For a standard fit add 5 to 8cm.
For a loose fit add 9 to 12cm.
For an oversize fit add upwards of 12cm.
The knitted length given for garments is measured from the top of the shoulder to the bottom of the hem.
Please note that all of our yarns are supplied washed and therefore do not require to be washed or fulled after knitting, unless you have an accident. Generally speaking, your garments should not require cleaning/washing any more than a coat would.
All of our designs are made with 100% pure new wool yarns and should be washed either by hand with pure soap in hand hot-water, or in a front loading washing machine which has a specific wool programme using a small amount of non-biological detergent. We do not recommend the use of any fabric softeners or any additives that will remain in the fabric after rinsing.
If hand washing, dissolve a small amount of pure soap flakes – or if using a pure soap bar, grate the required amount – into hand-hot water. Ensure that the soap has thoroughly dissolved before immersing the piece. Use a gentle squeezing motion to wash; do not cause any friction by rubbing or scrubbing as this will cause the fibres to felt. Gently squeeze out the excess soapy water and rinse well in warm water. It is important to remove as much excess water as quickly as possible as the longer moisture is left in wool yarn, the more likely it is to shrink or felt.
The best method for removing water is to spin in a washing machine, but if you prefer to remove the water by hand then gently squeeze the piece to remove the main water load and then lay the piece flat on towels and roll up, squeezing out as much water as possible into the towels. You will have to use several towels and repeat the process to remove as much moisture as you can.
Alternatively, spin to remove the excess water. If using a top loading machine it is important to place the piece in a suitable pillowcase (white cotton is best) so that it does not wrap around the spindle and become distorted. For both top-loading machines and front-loading machines, it is vitally important to remove from the spinner as soon as it has stopped: otherwise the piece can become permanently creased.
In all cases, dry flat on towels away from direct heat/sunlight, and smooth gently into shape. You can place small towels – or even better, cut and finish old towelling into the garment shapes, such as sleeves etc – and place inside the garment so that the two layers are separate. This will greatly help speed up drying process.
For straight, dropped-shoulder pullover styles, a woolly board is an excellent method of drying as the garment is placed on the board and dried to size allowing air to circulate inside. The board can also be used for cardigans in this style so long as you tack the front bands closed using a strong cotton thread, which you then carefully remove once the garment has dried. Glove boards can also be used for gloves which will allow them to dry in perfect shape.
Scottish Fleet in Cream and Navy.